Along the path that borders the beach Arnela we reach the first cliffs of the Cape of A Nave. All this stage has taken us along a rough and uneven coast that we have walked across along the highest parts of this section, but this stretch has no comparison. All along 2 kilometers and a half, we will ascend progressively along a path, from a 40-meter height till the 220 meters of the antennas of the Cape of A Nave.
From the path we see all these wild cliffs that fall down in vertical towards a rough, wild and threatening Ocean.
We are walking along a safe place, but looking down may make us feel dizzy. From that point, Point Longa has the appearance of a crocodile getting into the sea.
Huge and unspoiled rocks that can have only two colonizers: the birds and these goats that are able to balance on them without falling down the ocean…
After this demanding walking, we reach the antennas of Cape of the Nave, where we rest for a while and face the last kilometers of this Camiño dos Faros.
The views of this kind of balcony are amazing. The mount that falls in vertical, the beach of the “Mar de fora” and the imposing MountFacho, which hides our last goal: the lighthouse of Fisterra.
We descend along the road of the Cape till we get into some forest by taking the right way that will take us directly to “Mar de Fora”.
It seems incredible that in spite of the fact that we walk all this route along the coast we have to ascend up to this point, but the charm of this Camiño dos Faros may be behind these moments. In order to reach the summit of the 269-meter MountPedrouzo, we will have to ascend a hill for along 2 kilometers with a gradient of 13%.
From the Rego do Cuño, where we stop to have lunch, the route gets inland, towards a forest. And be careful at this point! If you go on along the cliffs it is impossible to reach anywhere and very dangerous.
Across these forests, we start ascending up MountPedrouzo, which is not very demanding, but as we have walked along so far, one feels already exhausted.
The summit of the Pedrouzo is a place we can considered to be very “trasno”, and the stones that are on that peak are the best place to gather and wait for those who are walking a bit behind. We stop for a short rest and enjoy the panoramic views of the CapeTouriñán getting into the sea.
As the rest of the stage, there is only one thing we perceive: the silence. The sounds the sea makes don´t reach this point, it is a place where people usually don´t go and just a few animals have been the witness of our walk all along the whole day. We are overwhelmed by a feeling of calm that only O Camiño dos Faros can provide you with.
The Mount Cachelmo is one of the most demanding ascents in O Camiño dos Faros. It is only 750 meters but you ascend from 0 to 150, with a gradient of 23%. We are at the beginning of the stage and we suggest you taking it without no rush and rest a couple of times when you have ascended half of it, at least. Just the views and your body are enough reasons to do it.
When we get to the summit, the views are amazing. On the foreground we can see Vilán and Camariñas, with all the ría that we have already walked along in the previous stage and that we admire from this height. In front of us, Muxía, beautiful and bright surrounded by the sea. The silence is overwhelming, and you don´t know if you are admiring the landscape or if you form part of it.
As we were getting the first drinks and food, we were thinking how lucky we were being in our walk. It was winter, a rainy winter that every time we set off, it became a sunny winter that allowed us to enjoy much more the wonders along this Costa da Morte. And the MountCachelmo is one of them.
From this point, the part of the stage that is left is seems to be even more demanding. First, we will have to walk bordering the beach Arnela till we reach the Point Buitra to walk across all the mounts of Cuño till we reach Moreira and Touriñán.
But before setting off, we can’t forget the legend of this MountCachelmo, the legend of the Buserana.
From the port of Santa Mariña we go up the dune that goes up along MountVeo till it reaches a 150-meter height, the biggest in the Peninsula. We will go through it till we reach 80 meters. Remember not to leave the sandy path in order to avoid stepping on the dune vegetation.
When we reach the top, we have reached the halfway point of O Camiño dos Faros. Apart from this particular feeling of reaching this point, for me, the trasno who is telling you this story, believes that the summit of this dune is one of the most amazing points in this route. Just think how the wind “works” to bring the sand from the beach up to create this mount.
From this point, the panoramic view of the beach Trece and the Point Boi with the Cemetery of the English will remain engraved in our minds. It is an unspoiled landscape, far away from the madding crowd and with the sound the sea makes hitting constantly this Sea Trece.
The feeling is unique, this is the essence of O Camiño dos Faros!
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From the summit we have two other awesome panoramic views. Looking towards the North, the Roncudo, and Corme on the foreground. In the forefront, the MountInsua that we have walked around till the lighthouse in Laxe, the “Playa de los Cristales” and Baleeira.
In the South, we can see the beach Soesto with the sea hitting hard, and in the foreground, the Punta Catasol, a privileged viewpoint.
We descend from the Rock Castro to the beach Soesto, with this feeling of freedom A Costa da Morte provides us with. This Camiño dos Faros is amazing, when you become a trasno you will agree with me for sure.
All the cliffs in this area don´t let us follow the route along the coast of Cabana as we would like to. However, we can enjoy from the privileged viewpoint, Punta do Cabalo, an amazing view of all the Ría.
From that point, we take a path along the coast that will take us to a spot with views of Laxe, a spot that, in spring, becomes a beautiful and colorful garden above the sea.
The next stop in O Camiño dos Faros is the summit of the route, the mount of Castelo in Lourido (312 meters). We take the path that takes us from Dombate to Fontefría to get to that mount by walking across the village to start ascending to the top.
These last meters are kind of demanding but it´s worth walking them as, at the end of this route, there is one of the most amazing views in A costa da Morte. From the top we can see the estuary of Anllóns on our right, its blue color can be similar to that of the Caribbean if the light and the tide are the adequate ones.
Across the estuary we can see Laxe, that is the end of this 3rd stage. From this viewpoint, we have the feeling that we can grasp it.
We have walked a lot of kilometers of this stage but there are still 5 left to finish it in Ponteceso. However, suddenly the landscape radically changes, now the sand plays the main role. The mountBranco is the vantage point of this area.
From the viewpoint we can enjoy one of the most amazing views of this Camiño dos Faros: the mouth of the river Anllóns in the estuary of Corme and Laxe. It´s awesome! A place to use your camera for sure.
When we descend the mountBranco we get to the beach Barra, which divides the sea and the river.
At this spot we are witness of how the wind action shapes the really fine sand to form some dunes with whimsical shapes. It is the desert of O Camiño dos Faros. In our route, we will walk over it and we will try not to step on any plant.
The route takes us along the mountFacha by using a broad forest track easy to walk along, something that we really thank after walking the kilometers we have already done.
When reaching the peak, the views of the Estuary are worth a stop. On the left, Corme, in front of us, Laxe and the coast of Camariñas till the MountBranco, that is the half point of O Camiño. On the right, Camana and the mouth of the river Anllóns…all the route that is left, saying amazing is not fair enough!
From this point on, the route becomes smoother towards the beach Valarés.
From Seaia to the Cape Saint Adrián there is a path that borders the mount always facing the sea and with amazing views of the village Malpica.
Along the route we see the Fountain of Saint Adrián. It is believed that the water of this fountain heals warts. They use a handkerchief that, they will later leave hung on a tree that covers the fountain. We suggest you refilling the bottles of water for the part of the route that leads to Beo. Be careful! Don´t take water from the fountain that is before this one as it is called “the fountain of the flu”
On the cape, we can see the chapel of Saint Adrián. According to the legend, in the 5th century, Saint Adrián arrived in this land to christianize them and get rid of the pagan cults, which were symbolized by a snake, a fight he won. The chapel was built in the 16th century and restored in the 20th. A crowded “romería” (kind of festival) is held nearby in mid-June.
There, in the viewpoint of Saint Adrián, we stop for first time in this Camiño dos Faros, admiring the stretch we have already done from Malpica.
If we have a look at our left we can see the SisargasIslands, which are a mile away. There, we can see the second lighthouse of our route. This lighthouse was built in 1919 and it has been the mute witness and guide for the fishing vessels, merchant ships and huge oil tankers that sail along this maritime corridor.
Have you ever been there? We think we are going to jump to show it to you.