The promenade of Caldeirón is the first time we end up near the open sea along O Camiños do Faros. We can see how the sea hits the rocks and we enjoy a view of the Sisargas Islands and part of the route towards Saint Adrián.
We will take this path to the Beach Area Maior, a wide beach with all services that usually families go there with their children as they can enjoy freely as they can´t do in any other areas. In summer, it is the place chosen by different sports competitions to take place, as beach football or volleyball.
This beach provides the visitors with all the services together with terraces over the sea with views of the Sisargas. We do suggest walking along the beach with low tide till the end of Canido beach and enjoy the unique smell of A Costa da Morte.
This is the first beach we go through following O Camiño dos Faros. At the end of the beach, in Canido, after passing by a fountain, a path will lead us towards Seaia and Saint Adrián.
It was from this lighthouse from where the Trasnos started this adventure in A Costa da Morte. It was early in the morning after a rich breakfast and we were looking forward to starting this adventure.
It´s known that the km 0 of O Camiño dos Faros undergo the brutal strikes of the waves during the tough winter storms that pass by freely over the pier.
Let´s go…till Fisterra!
It was another night but none of the Trasnos who were there will ever forget Xiña’s words. Looking at the sea surrounding the SisargasIslands and enjoying the moment with all our senses from one of the terraces in Malpica, she said:
- “How about linking Malpica with Fisterra walking along the coastline?”
We looked at each other for 5 seconds. Overwhelmed by a mixture of surprise, disbelief and astonishment, we ended up agreeing and saying at the same time: “It sounds cool!!”
- “Why don´t we use our magic to show everybody the route and make them become Trasnos to live this adventure with us?
- “Of course! Go for it! It´s gonna be fun!”
Since then, we do only have a goal, that is, to make this Camiño dos Faros be a reality so that people can make it with the maximum respect for nature.
Xiña loves the sea and she is a very good surfer. She wanted to start the route in one of her favorite beaches, the beach in Razo, a surfing paradise on the coast. But we told her that the Lighthouse route had to start in a Lighthouse and there is none there. She was upset for a few days, but with the first wave she surfed in Malpica all her disappointment vanished.
Nemiño loves strolling from one point to another. He climbs mountains, swims miles offshore. He can´t be still and he hikes all the routes in a Costa da Morte. He loves the rocks, stones and pebbles. When he comes across with anything made of stone, he gets astonished and he starts telling us how long that stone in question has been there, which is the meaning it represents…what an earful sometimes!
Nemiño was born in the MountNeme on Saint John´s eve thousands of years ago. Every time we pass by that mount he enjoys with all his memories.
Tonelo is the one who puts up with all of us. He is the patient Trasno, he is always where he has to be and he is the one who steps in and takes the charge when we do more “trasnadas” than we are supposed to. I can´t show you a picture of him because he has none. Nobody has ever taken a photo of the Trasnos but of course, to be on the net some photos need to be taken and we got some where we could see Xiña and Nemiño´s back. Such trasnos!
This bay, faced on the west and kind of closed by small islands and Punta Queimada provides the visitors with a true oases of tranquility before reaching Niñóns. It is at this point where Malpica ends and Ponteceso starts to form part of O Camiño dos Faros.
The first stage of Os Camiños dos Faros finishes on Niñóns beach that belongs to Ponteceso. Its access is kind of complicate mainly for those people who don´t know the area. As its beach is calm and it is surrounded by pine forests, we can say that this beach is visited yearly by loyal visitors that choose it as one of the best places to spend a day.
It was at this moment, when we, the trasnos, were walking this part when we were talking about how interesting would be if you could form part of this adventure and live the magic of Os Camiños dos Faros.
Following this route, we reached the beach Niñóns, from where we would start the second stage leading us to “O Roncudo” and to the “Ría de Corme-Laxe” till Ponteceso.
O Camiño dos Faros, after visiting Punta Nariga, runs along the coast heading to the Bay of Lago and Niñóns by taking a breathtaking path. They are small cliffs that we walk across by taking a path that is kind of demanding, whereas we are witness of how the sea hits this immense rock that is Punta Nariga.
If we see right in front of us, we have all the Roncudo skyline, that we will walk along in the next stage. After walking 2 kilometers and passing by “O Coído dos Xunquiños Gordos”, “Pedras das Caniceiras”, “Punta do Roblo”, “Coído do Cheiroso” and “Punta Anguieiro”, we reach a level ground path leading us to LagoBay.
The surroundings of Punta Nariga is full with magic. A wind power plant was built to take advantage of the strong wind that dominates the area most of the year, which gives to the place a solitary aspect. When walking along it, we will see some rock formations with endless shapes.
When getting to the lighthouse, we see the construction by César Portela inaugurated in 1997 that imitates the shape of the bow of a ship getting into the sea. The figurehead is a sculpture by Manolo Coia and a perfect place to take a photo.
Being aware of the danger, we can walk along the rocks the lighthouse stands over. These rocks have different shapes because of the erosive effect the sea and the wind have on them.
It is the first big lighthouse we visit in our route and it is here where we understand the reason of the name of the route. Although the lighthouses are indsipensable elements along A Costa da Morte, it is from this point from where we can see a great part of what we have done so far in this first stage and part of the beginning of the second one. This possibility of seeing what we have walked and the route that is left will go with us along the rest of O Camiño dos Faros.
It is here in Punta Nariga where we will do the stop of grouping to face the last part of this stage that will lead us to the Beach Niñóns, with some difficulties. That´s why we do recommend doing it during the day, never at night.
When getting to Barizo, we have already walked half of this stage of O Camiño dos Faros. In the small bay we can see some houses and several restaurants. For example, As Garzas, rewarded with a “Estrella Michelín” (“Michelin Star”); “La Casa Vasca” and the Bar/Restaurant “Xan” where you can restock your energies to face the second part of this stage.
O Camiño dos Faros goes across the small beach of Barizo heading to Punta Nariga. It is actually a place people usually visit but it lacks basic services as a lifeguard service.
At the end of the bay, under the cliff-lined coast we can see the small port with local vessels, where the amateur fishermen try to fish some squids during the summer nights.
The next landmark in this Camiño dos Faros is Seiruga beach, placed in an area well known for its huge natural importance in front of the Sisargas beach. The wetland of “Xuncal de Martel” is chosen by ducks, herons and sea otters to nest o just to rest. It is an amazing landscape in both high and low tides, with a small “ría” (a kind of estuary typical all along the Galicia coast) that is an ideal place for children to have a bath.
When reaching Seiruga we face a difficult part in the route as we have to go across the stream. Although it is kind of easy during the low tide, it´s a bit complicate when going across during the high tide. But the only thing we should do is to take off our shoes, roll up the trousers our knees, look for the best place to go across and …there we go!
In the seasons when it rains harder (from January to March) the stream flow reaches its maximum and the water can reach our chest. Then, it is when we should take the alternative way that leaves from Beo.
It is important to take your time to get rid of all the sand in your feet and dry very well. There is a long way to finish the stage and the sand can be annoying. We leave the beach by walking along a kind of walkway along the dunes and we border all the dunes till the end of the sandy area leading to Barizo.
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This beach is in the village with the same name, a place that is sheltered from the Northeast wind that is so common in this area. That´s why is so popular among people who usually visit it in summer. There is a picnic area nearby with its tables and seats made of stone. It is there where we will do our first stop to have something to eat and drink in this part of O Camiño dos Faros.
From this point, we have two options to go on: on the one hand, by using the stairs made of wood or, if there is low tide, just go along the beach leading to Seiruga.
When we are leaving the beach, we can see an open rustic washing area with a fountain and the small port of Tella, a natural port tucked among these rocks of Beo, a point from where we go on with our route leading to Seiruga.
A bit further, we walk around Punta Galiana passing by the two walls and the moat that defended the “Castro de Entretorres”, one of the few offshore “castros” in the area that has not been studied yet.