Tag Archives: Rivers

Estuary of Lires

The estuary of Lires is formed in the mouth of the river Castro on the beach Nemiña, forming the perfect habitat for a great deal of birds, mainly, seagulls and cormorants that find easily food among the “leftovers” the fish farm gets rid of.

In order to go from Nemiña to the village Lires, we will have to leave towards the paved track and after some hundred meters, follow the route that leads to the right and borders all the River Castro till the bridge of Vaosilveiro, which replaces the old paths the pilgrims had to walk along in their way to Fisterra or Muxía. It is one of the few stretches that O Camiño dos Faros coincides with the “Way of St. James”

After walking over the bridge of Vaosilveiro, we get to Lires, a village with a special charm and that has got used to the hikers, a path that follows among the “hórreos” and rural houses that have been restored with a very good taste. The offer of accommodation is great and diverse, that´s why we suggest you staying there some days.


We go across the village of Lires and we go towards along the other bank of the ría, walking along the bridge over a small stream. When we arrive at the fish farm, this stream joins the river Castro which is full and flowing river and that gives shape to this Ría of Lares.

After a while, we get to the beach of Lires, a small and quiet sandy spot that is on this side of this ría, which is the smallest in Galicia. Just imagine how small it is that you can go across it in summer if the tide is low and the level of the water doesn´t cover higher than your ankles.

From that point, we can see one of the most amazing panoramic views of this Camiño dos Faros: the beach Nemiña with its thousand “faces” and a big dune covered by a forest.

At this point, we are going to tell you a secret. We wanted to keep it just for a few of us because these coasts one people know them, they start losing something…But as we are very good trasnos, there it goes:

From the terrace of the bar Playa, with a drink and eating the delicious omelets or the calamari that Pepe´s family prepares we can admire the most amazing sunset in this Costa da Morte. A natural viewpoint above Nemiña and all the ocean that you should never miss.

If the tide is appropriate and you are not tired, we also suggest you crossing the ría and finishing the previous stage watching the sunset.


O Camiño dos Faros gets to Santiago de Cereixo, which belongs to the municipality of Vimianzo. It is a different landscape and strategic for the trade as it did already exist in the 10th century, but the lootings of the Vikings and Arabians all along the centuries 12th, 13th destroyed it. In order to re-found it, the king Alfonso XII provided it with the “carta puebla” and several privileges, visiting it in 1228 and making it stronger in front of the feudal lords. Its port was really important at that time.

Before arriving, we are impressed when we see the silhouette of the 19-foot “hórreo”, one of the biggest in Galicia. It is placed in Vila Purificación, a baroque “pazo” that dates back to the 18th century where the taxes had to be paid and it also has a pigeon house.

We take the way that takes us to the riverbank by taking it among the first houses. The first thing that we see is an invention, the “Mill of the tides”, which was created centuries ago. It was built in 1679 by the family Moscosos and Altamira. This mill used not only the force of the river Riotorto but also the tides of the estuary to grind. Now, it is being used as a house whose main door is reached by using a wooden walkway (kind of small bridge) over the river.

From the mill, the path takes us to the riverside walk, with several information panels that will help us to get to know more the fauna and flora of this area. On the other side, we can see beautiful hanging houses. It seems as if the time has not gone by them. We use these nice shadows the river provides us with to stop to have something to drink and eat. We have done less than half of the stage, so we can`t stay there long if we want to arrive in Muxía.

By the stairs, we can get to Santiago de Cereixo´s church, that was built in the 12th century, keeping from that time the Romanesque ground plan and part of its walls.

The most attractive part is the tympanum of one of its doors, made in the 12th century. It is the oldest representation graved in stone of the scene that represents the moment when the Apostle Santiago was taken to Galicia on a boat with 7 disciples.

Next to the church, we see the robust Towers of Cereixo, built by the lords Calo and Carantoña in the 17th century, probably above a fortress that protected previously the mouth of the river from the continuous raids by the Vikings. When its role as a defensive building vanished, a new building was built to link both crenellated towers.  So, the ground floor was used as the place where the inhabitants paid their taxes, and the upper area as a dwelling.

On the main façade and on the lateral one, the shields represent most of the noble families, that had been in a particular moment, the owners of this “pazo”. At the beginning of the 20th century, the last owner descendant of these lineages had to sell it. Nowadays, the owner is an architect and visits are not allowed, but, as we can see from outside, it is in very good condition, so, well maintained.

In the middle of the square, there is an impressive oak whose age is unknown but what we actually know is that it is at least some centuries old, even older than the towers. The place under the tree top is also a good spot to rest as we deserve after the walk.

What do you think about this part of the route? We have left the coastline and got into the banks of the river Grande, a stretch that is full of life and history. We do believe it is worth walking it. Now, we have to stand up, as there is half of the stage left.

Ponte do Porto

This place is named after the bridge over the river Grande next to its mouth that dates back to the 13th century. This small port was important for its popular timber trade becoming the main point of this business all around the area long time ago.

We walk across the medieval bridge that is in the center of the village. On the other side we can see St. Peter´s Church, which keeps a very interesting collection of lacework. Apart from this, we can also see the houses made of stone overlooking at the river. It is actually worth stopping and seeing them.

Along the walk by the river till Cereixo we can see ducks and some other aquatic birds that find this mouth their best habitat.

Rego dos Muíños

O Rego dos Muíños or of Roncadoiro is the reason why this route is worth it. They are 3 kilometers along which we can listen not only to the sea sound but also to the river noise, a stream with small waterfalls and amazing spots where we can stop and enjoy.

By the river, the path ascends till Borneiro, across a grove of trees whose colors change according to the season. It is really amazing!

Along the route, we can see the remains of several windmills that are in its riverbank. 24 buildings which show us how important this river was for the inhabitants of Canduas and Borneiro.

When getting to Borneiro, we have to go across the road and we can see the route to the Castro A Cibda.

The path of River Anllóns

This 3rd stage starts by walking along this amazing landmark, the estuary of the river Anllóns. The first kilometers is carried out by leaving the bridge of Ponteceso by taking the main road till we reach the factory Apligasa, from where we will take the right one that will lead us to a broad forest walk to the mouth of the river.

When we descend, we realize once again that all the landscape with the MountBranco in front of us make this route be a special piece of landscape in every step. 

This is a very rich area and the livelihood-sustaining asset of the shelfish gatherers that look for the cockle and also of the great amount of birds that rest along their migrations as it is a calm place where there are no predators and it is full of small invertebrates they feed upon.

And it is there, at the beach of Urixeira, next to the small observatory place, where the trasnos met José Luis Rabuñal Patiño. This ornithologist is the only authoritative voice to speak about this ecosystem, as he has been walking along it since the 70s, when he discovered that this estuary was the door for the birds flying form the States to get into Europe.

Since then, he has spent his life watching their migrations with more than 3500 visits documented. Not only is he a source of information but also he is a very good speaker. Just listening to him describing the flight of a 20-grame bird that flies across the Atlántico more than 10000kms without any stop, eating or sleeping is one of the presents this Camiño dos Faros gives us away.

From the beach Urixeira, the Path of Anllóns starts, a path that goes along the mouth of the river Anllóns, the bay Insua reaching the beach Lodeiro. In total, they are 3 kilomters along which you could see a lot of fauna and flora which makes this place be amazing.

Apart from its natural environment, the route takes us to some of the old shipyards where ships of wood were built that still exist nowadays. In the 20th century, loads of fishing and coasting vessels left from the shipyard of A Telleira. They are small shipyards where vessels are built and repaired in a craftsmanship way. Currently, there are still 3 (O Baladiño, O Tecelán e Roseva). They are one of the ethnographic treasures of the area.

When we reach the beach Lodeiro in As Grelas, which is actually the end of this path, we go across the road and it is then when the landscape radically changes again.

O Camiño dos Faros goes along the coastline whenever is possible, but in this stage we will walk 10 kilometers inland as it is worth doing it. We will ascend by taking the Route do Rego dos Muíños to see the Castro A Cibda and the Dolmen in Dombate, two archaeological treasures in A Costa da Morte, to finish the route in the Mount Castle of Lourido, the best viewpoint above the Ría with its 312-meter height.

Estuary of the River Anllóns

At this spot we are witness of how the wind action shapes the really fine sand to form some dunes with whimsical shapes. It is the desert of O Camiño dos Faros. In our route, we will walk over it and we will try not to step on any plant.

This part is a mix of feelings: after walking by the dunes, we walk along a path by the river. This stuary is the habitat chosen by loads of birds such as: plovers, tufted ducks or mallards to stay there for long. We suggest doing this part with binoculars and, if you feel like, go to the observation stand. 

We go on through the boardwalk of Couto towards Ponteceso. This part is full of contrasts, which makes us be aware again of the great variety of treasures in this route. O Camiño dos Faros, every step, one amazing landscape.