The promenade of Caldeirón is the first time we end up near the open sea along O Camiños do Faros. We can see how the sea hits the rocks and we enjoy a view of the Sisargas Islands and part of the route towards Saint Adrián.
We will take this path to the Beach Area Maior, a wide beach with all services that usually families go there with their children as they can enjoy freely as they can´t do in any other areas. In summer, it is the place chosen by different sports competitions to take place, as beach football or volleyball.
This beach provides the visitors with all the services together with terraces over the sea with views of the Sisargas. We do suggest walking along the beach with low tide till the end of Canido beach and enjoy the unique smell of A Costa da Morte.
This is the first beach we go through following O Camiño dos Faros. At the end of the beach, in Canido, after passing by a fountain, a path will lead us towards Seaia and Saint Adrián.
It was from this lighthouse from where the Trasnos started this adventure in A Costa da Morte. It was early in the morning after a rich breakfast and we were looking forward to starting this adventure.
It´s known that the km 0 of O Camiño dos Faros undergo the brutal strikes of the waves during the tough winter storms that pass by freely over the pier.
Let´s go…till Fisterra!
This bay, faced on the west and kind of closed by small islands and Punta Queimada provides the visitors with a true oases of tranquility before reaching Niñóns. It is at this point where Malpica ends and Ponteceso starts to form part of O Camiño dos Faros.
O Camiño dos Faros, after visiting Punta Nariga, runs along the coast heading to the Bay of Lago and Niñóns by taking a breathtaking path. They are small cliffs that we walk across by taking a path that is kind of demanding, whereas we are witness of how the sea hits this immense rock that is Punta Nariga.
If we see right in front of us, we have all the Roncudo skyline, that we will walk along in the next stage. After walking 2 kilometers and passing by “O Coído dos Xunquiños Gordos”, “Pedras das Caniceiras”, “Punta do Roblo”, “Coído do Cheiroso” and “Punta Anguieiro”, we reach a level ground path leading us to LagoBay.
The surroundings of Punta Nariga is full with magic. A wind power plant was built to take advantage of the strong wind that dominates the area most of the year, which gives to the place a solitary aspect. When walking along it, we will see some rock formations with endless shapes.
When getting to the lighthouse, we see the construction by César Portela inaugurated in 1997 that imitates the shape of the bow of a ship getting into the sea. The figurehead is a sculpture by Manolo Coia and a perfect place to take a photo.
Being aware of the danger, we can walk along the rocks the lighthouse stands over. These rocks have different shapes because of the erosive effect the sea and the wind have on them.
It is the first big lighthouse we visit in our route and it is here where we understand the reason of the name of the route. Although the lighthouses are indsipensable elements along A Costa da Morte, it is from this point from where we can see a great part of what we have done so far in this first stage and part of the beginning of the second one. This possibility of seeing what we have walked and the route that is left will go with us along the rest of O Camiño dos Faros.
It is here in Punta Nariga where we will do the stop of grouping to face the last part of this stage that will lead us to the Beach Niñóns, with some difficulties. That´s why we do recommend doing it during the day, never at night.
When getting to Barizo, we have already walked half of this stage of O Camiño dos Faros. In the small bay we can see some houses and several restaurants. For example, As Garzas, rewarded with a “Estrella Michelín” (“Michelin Star”); “La Casa Vasca” and the Bar/Restaurant “Xan” where you can restock your energies to face the second part of this stage.
O Camiño dos Faros goes across the small beach of Barizo heading to Punta Nariga. It is actually a place people usually visit but it lacks basic services as a lifeguard service.
At the end of the bay, under the cliff-lined coast we can see the small port with local vessels, where the amateur fishermen try to fish some squids during the summer nights.
The next landmark in this Camiño dos Faros is Seiruga beach, placed in an area well known for its huge natural importance in front of the Sisargas beach. The wetland of “Xuncal de Martel” is chosen by ducks, herons and sea otters to nest o just to rest. It is an amazing landscape in both high and low tides, with a small “ría” (a kind of estuary typical all along the Galicia coast) that is an ideal place for children to have a bath.
When reaching Seiruga we face a difficult part in the route as we have to go across the stream. Although it is kind of easy during the low tide, it´s a bit complicate when going across during the high tide. But the only thing we should do is to take off our shoes, roll up the trousers our knees, look for the best place to go across and …there we go!
In the seasons when it rains harder (from January to March) the stream flow reaches its maximum and the water can reach our chest. Then, it is when we should take the alternative way that leaves from Beo.
It is important to take your time to get rid of all the sand in your feet and dry very well. There is a long way to finish the stage and the sand can be annoying. We leave the beach by walking along a kind of walkway along the dunes and we border all the dunes till the end of the sandy area leading to Barizo.
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This beach is in the village with the same name, a place that is sheltered from the Northeast wind that is so common in this area. That´s why is so popular among people who usually visit it in summer. There is a picnic area nearby with its tables and seats made of stone. It is there where we will do our first stop to have something to eat and drink in this part of O Camiño dos Faros.
From this point, we have two options to go on: on the one hand, by using the stairs made of wood or, if there is low tide, just go along the beach leading to Seiruga.
When we are leaving the beach, we can see an open rustic washing area with a fountain and the small port of Tella, a natural port tucked among these rocks of Beo, a point from where we go on with our route leading to Seiruga.
A bit further, we walk around Punta Galiana passing by the two walls and the moat that defended the “Castro de Entretorres”, one of the few offshore “castros” in the area that has not been studied yet.
There are two ways to get to Beo from San Adrián. One that goes through the antennas walking along the highest part of the mount. The other one is the way known as the way of the fishermen that goes along the coast facing the SisargasIslands. It is actually the latter one, the one that we follow in our route. O Camiño dos faros will follow always the coastline when it is possible.
The way to Beo is breathtaking and not very demanding, except when we reach some parts that are close to the cliff which makes us feel a bit afraid of the height. The sea in this area hits the shoreline with strength and it is at that moment when the feeling of being involved in an adventurous experience has already wrapped us.
O Camiño dos Faros has been designed along the coastline to enjoy these landscapes, otherwise, it would be impossible to see them.
The Sisargas Islands are a small archipelago uninhabited placed 1 mile off the Cape of Saint Adrián in Malpica. This archipelago is formed by the islands “Grande”, “Chica” and “Malante” together with some islets. They were inhabited in the past as the presence of the Chapel Santa Mariña proves. This chapel that was destroyed by the pirates in their endless raids all along the 10the century.
This nature reserve is rich in plant and animal life. Loads of endangered birds nest in these islands and some other ones just use them to rest in their long-distance migrations. Species such as the herring gull, the kittiwake, and the seagull known as the “dark” seagull. They find in the cliffs that are in the northern part of the island the perfect habitat.
If we have the chance of getting close to the island and walk along it, we shouldn´t miss it. There is no company that can take us, so the only way is to find a ship from Malpica that take us there.
We land in a small natural port. We can take a dip in the only beach the island has and start a walk that will take us to the lighthouse admiring an amazing view of Malpica and Saint Adrián. The seagulls and the herring gulls are the real owners of these islands and they will come with us while we stay in the island. They will protect their eggs and their chicks.
We reach the lighthouse. It was built in 1919, and it has a mute witness and guide for those sailing by for a long period of time. The lighthouse keeper used to stay there for 15 days alone in the islands till he was replaced by another one. The cliffs near the lighthouse reach 100 meters high. The croaking of the birds and the noise the sea makes are mixed in this view of the sea causing a feeling of vertigo that we will never forget.
We leave the cliffs to head to the forest that covers a huge part of the highest area of the GrandeIsland. This small forest surprises us because of the amount of leaves of the pines. Curiously, the absence of human beings has allowed that the treetops reach our heads.
We descend again till the pier where there is a ship waiting for us that will take us to land after spending some hours that are unforgettable.