Before getting to Laxe, we take a small path on our right to visit Cabo da Area, from where we can enjoy unique views of the village.
We left Dombate and we headed to Fontefría to reach the summit of O Camiño dos Faros: The Castle Lourido. In Fontefría, we can fill up our bottles in the fountain that it is before reaching the village.
Along the way, we meet with the farmers that prepare the silos (kind of storage places for holding grain) to stock the food that will feed the animals in winter.
On our way to Dombate, we get to Vilaseco, a typical village in the inland of Bergantiños. We can see big “horreos” built in wood or stone that were and still are used to keep the corn and cereals.
When we are leaving the village, we can see a farm with Galician Friesian cows, one of the few livestock farms in this Camiño dos Faros.
From that point, we will take the road that will lead us to the “Dolmen” in Dombate. It will take us only a few minutes to get there.
All the cliffs in this area don´t let us follow the route along the coast of Cabana as we would like to. However, we can enjoy from the privileged viewpoint, Punta do Cabalo, an amazing view of all the Ría.
The beach San Pedro is the last one in Cabana, being the closest to Laxe. In order to access to it, we have to take a path that starts in San Pedro de Canduas. It is placed among to rocks and surrounded by a forest and it is considered to be one of the treasures in this Coast da Morte.
O Camiño dos Faros does not descend to the beach. On the other hand, it goes on along the houses of San Pedro leading to Punta do Cabalo by walking across pine groves, bay trees and some areas with oaks.
The beach Rebordelo is the largest in this area and it is in a virgin surrounding of the coast of Cabana, surrounded by pine groves and eucalyptus.
In winter, a stream that forms a peculiar waterfall can be seen on the left of the beach. We will have to walk across it on our way to San Pedro.
From the castle of Lourido we descend by taking a dirty track that will lead us till Canduas through Arnela.
Canduas emerged around the Monastery of San Martiño in Canduas. It dates back to the 14th century, and it was annexed to the Monastery of San Martiño Pinario in Santiago. There are no remains of the old monastery. The rectory house was built above it and the façade of the Church of San Martiño was covered by using the stones of the “hórreo”. This façade faces the North.
In our route, apart from the Church we can also see the House of Romero and its stone cross.
The next stop in O Camiño dos Faros is the summit of the route, the mount of Castelo in Lourido (312 meters). We take the path that takes us from Dombate to Fontefría to get to that mount by walking across the village to start ascending to the top.
Across the estuary we can see Laxe, that is the end of this 3rd stage. From this viewpoint, we have the feeling that we can grasp it.
This Castro was discovered in 1924 by Isidro Parga Pondal. The different archaeological excavations carried out let us see nowadays most of the “castro” and study the lifestyle of those people. It was inhabited between the 1st and 6th century and it seems not to have been Romanized.
There are lots of “castros” in this area. These settlements are in the high lands from where they dominate the whole area, and they are usually close to the bed of the rivers where they took the water from. This “castro” is a perfect example: there are several walls that surround the “castro” as a defense. There is also a stream close to it. From the “castro”, which is 200 meters high, we can see the mouth of the river Anllóns and the estuary of Corme and Laxe.
Most of the houses have a circular shape, with a 5-meter diameter. The ground floor of most of them is still kept in good condition. Apart from these dwellings, there are some remains of some other places of the village where the inhabitants carried out some other tasks. In the eastern area, which can be considered the entrance of the village, there is a kind of complex formed by a big oval house, two fountains and a circular oven used to melt the metal.
Its inhabitants were farmers, as some pieces of pottery and bronze have been found, prove that they used them in their daily tasks. These pieces are exhibited in the Castle of San Antón in A Coruña. As this “castro” is closed to the sea, it is believed that its inhabitants also carried out tasks related to fishing and shellfish-gathering. Without a doubt, it is a place to visit to know the lifestyle of the people of that time in this part of the coast.
Along the route, there are some monoliths that indicate that it is not allowed to sit or walk along their walls. In summer time, there is a guide who shows the visitor all this “jerarquía castreña” (the “castros” show the hierarchy of the people of that time) and its lifestyle, where men and women share the tasks and goods in a society where the age was the indicator of the largest ranges.
O Rego dos Muíños or of Roncadoiro is the reason why this route is worth it. They are 3 kilometers along which we can listen not only to the sea sound but also to the river noise, a stream with small waterfalls and amazing spots where we can stop and enjoy.
Along the route, we can see the remains of several windmills that are in its riverbank. 24 buildings which show us how important this river was for the inhabitants of Canduas and Borneiro.
When getting to Borneiro, we have to go across the road and we can see the route to the Castro A Cibda.