Tag Archives: Beaches

Beach Leis

We leave the beach Area Grande ascending along some pine groves heading to Leis. When we reach the dirty track that descends till the beach we have two options. The easiest one is to turn left and go up the road that takes to the light house of the beach Lago.

But O Camiño dos Faros is not easy and it tries to run along the coastline, trying to take the right one going down till the beach Leis, where we have some panoramic views of the Ría. Curiously, Camariñas seems to be closer than Muxía, when it is absolutely the opposite.  An optical illusion that is not fun after walking 20 kilometers.

When going down to the beach Leis, its calm waters invite us to have a batch. It is an option, but we arrive first in Lago.

At the end of the beach, we have to cross among the rocks till we reach the lighthouse of the beach Lago. It is a kind of difficult walk and it is the only option. If you follow the prints left by the trasnos you will never have  to deal with a problem. But be very careful, and please, don´t try to reach the lighthouse by taking another route.

The stretch starts where the rocks are and it is true that it is not easy to walk among them. Through the rocks we get to a steep hill that is one of the most difficult in all O Camiño dos Faros. But, for the average walker it is possible to do it, although it is better to go with someone in order to help those ones who can find it more exhausting.

After walking for a while over these cliffs in Leis, we reach the beach Lago.

 
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Beaches of Reira

The beaches or Feira are the four beaches placed between the beach Trece and the CapeVilán. They are beaches with fine sand, very windy and with huge waves, surrounded by a charming almost unspoiled landscape.

We walk through the beach Reira to get to Punta Forcados, where we can see “A Pedra do Oso”. Someone liked the rock and he or she took it with him or her in 2002. Actually, nobody knew anything about it for a few days. It ended up appearing in a construction area as some building workers had been asked to bring some stones from Camariñas. As it was easy to be found, they loaded it with a crane and let´s go! This is a kind of stories that can happen in A Costa da Morte which makes us think how vulnerable our cultural heritage is.

Close to the beach, we can see also the ethnographic collection of Foxo dos Lobos, an old device the inhabitants from the area used to catch the wolves, whose presence in this area is widely spread. 

Close to the beach, we can see also the ethnographic collection of Foxo dos Lobos, an old device the inhabitants from the area used to catch the wolves, whose presence in this area is widely spread.

We will walk through the beaches Balea and Pedrosa before going up the mountainside of the mountPedrosa till we take again the dirty track that will lead us to Vilán.

All along this stretch, we can see the lighthouse Vilán. We will reach it as soon as we walk across the windmill of the “Alto da Vela”

 

Beach Trece

Descending the dune MountBranco and reaching the beach Trece on a sunny winter day surrounded by the sea with big swells is one of the best experiences A Costa da Morte can provide you with.

Being of great natural beauty, and as the Atlantic ocean is hitting it constantly it has a desert-like aspect as nobody stops by this place, with protected flora species as the “caramiña” (corema album), which can grow in extremely severe weather conditions. The village Camariñas was named after it. This flower could be seen along the coast in the early times, however, nowadays it is endangered.

We go through the beach which is formed by small coves divided by “restingas” of rocks that go out into the sea.

A mix of sea, wind, sand and rocks that create everywhere beautiful spots to stop and take photos.

The beach Trece is a unspoiled coastal spot to enjoy and preserve. Xorxa and Tolo are aware of this special experience and they are enjoying as we are doing.

We walk along the coves one after the other one, getting the most of each one with no rush, till we reach the end of the beach, where we make a provisioning stop in the small forest of the trasnos, where the wind has also given shape to the cups of the trees, transforming it into a welcoming and cozy shelter. 

Beach Soesto

Soesto is a calm and familiar beach placed somehow at the back of the village Laxe. We get there by taking Os Camiños dos Faros after descending the Rock. There are other options: taking a hiking-trail that starts in the village or by taking the road, turning off right where the “Pazo de Leis” is.

This beach has white and fine sand, with open sea and it is very windy with big waves being one of the spots chosen by surfers to go surfing.


When we go through the stream in Soesto, we stop to take a photo as the shapes are perfect. O Camiño dos Faros is an art gallery.

Next to the beach there is an area with tables and benches of stone to make a stop to get something to eat and drink in our route.

From there, we leave Soesto by the wooden walkway to the beach and the lagoon of Traba.


Beach Laxe

This beach forms part of the village and it extends all along the south coast of the estuary. Not only its 2 kilometers of white and fine sand but also all the services and great promenade it provides the visitors with make this beach an ideal place to enjoy with your family.

The promenade extends from the beach next to the port till the dune complex where there used to be a place to exploit kaolin. There are still some remains of such a place. 

Getting to Laxe from the beach is another special moment of O Camiño dos Faros. Wandering along it barefoot feeling the water, without any rush making all your senses feel it is a present O Camiño dos Faros provides us with.

 

Beach San Pedro

The beach San Pedro is the last one in Cabana, being the closest to Laxe. In order to access to it, we have to take a path that starts in San Pedro de Canduas. It is placed among to rocks and surrounded by a forest and it is considered to be one of the treasures in this Coast da Morte.

 

O Camiño dos Faros does not descend to the beach. On the other hand, it goes on along the houses of San Pedro leading to Punta do Cabalo by walking across pine groves, bay trees and some areas with oaks.

 

Beach Rebordelo

The beach Rebordelo is the largest in this area and it is in a virgin surrounding of the coast of Cabana, surrounded by pine groves and eucalyptus.

Pointed northeast, its sea is kind of tough and has big swells, so you have to be careful when having a bath. We, the Trasnos, will walk wandering along the shore refreshing our feet and this will be the second stop to get some stuff we could need. 

In winter, a stream that forms a peculiar waterfall can be seen on the left of the beach. We will have to walk across it on our way to San Pedro.

 

Valarés Beach

The beach Valarés, placed in the inner part of the Estuary at the foot of mountBlanco is one of the most popular in A Costa da Morte.

When we get right to the beach, the beach is divided in two small coves, Big Valarés and Small Valarés, which was for long the place chosen for people as a campsite area where free camping was allowed and a lot of families used to spend the whole summer there. The well-maintained pine tree forest surrounding this sandy area is perfect to enjoy a meal or just to make a stop along O Camiño dos Faros.

The history of Valarés is also the history of Titania S.A., which is a Galician mining company created in 1936 and closed down in 1960, which was devoted to the exportation of titanium in Valarés. The mine was discovered in 1935 by the geographer Isidro Parga Pondal, and the brothers Fernández López also participated in this company. Titania was the exception to the tungsten electrodes rush of other mine in the area.

titania

 

This mine provides the inhabitants of Corme and Laxe with an important economic push during the hard postwar years. They had an “economato” (a kind of supermarket where the goods had much lower prices), good salaries for the time and decent working conditions.

 

Nowadays, some remains of the port can be seen and some parts of the pools where the “rutilio” (titanium oxide) was separated from the sand, however these remains are in bad condition. Apart from the titanium, they tried to process the sulphur from other mines, but they stopped doing it because many workers started suffering from hair loss and having some spots on their skin. Not very long after, the titanium rush came to an end and in 1960 the mine definitely closed down.

 

Regarding this mine,  Luís Giadás published in El País, on June 6th, 2010 that: “The mine brought an end to hunger in all the estuary of Corme and Laxe”, he confirms. The cards of the beneficiary of the “economato” and the interviews carried out to 20 neighbors that formed part of this enterprise are basically the only information we kept about the mine. In a deeply wounded economy because of the Second World War, the uses given to the titanium were suspicious for the workers, who didn’t know what they were working for. Some of them believed that the material was used by the pharmaceutical industry. Some others thought that it was used to make the coarse striking surface on the edge of a matchbox. Some of them were convinced that it was used to cover the bullets as the tungsten carbide did. “Most of the material was sent to the Basque Country, for the enterprise, Unquinosa, run by German people”, pointed out Giadás, who doesn´t not dare to explain how far Titania S.A. provided the war in Europe with the material required. “In this mine, what is hushed up is more interesting than what is said”, he states.

In Valarés, first, the stone wokers built a port hid not only for the titanium but also for smuggling. The women in O Couto, a place near Valarés, women learnt how to mix cement to help the men to build. When the mine started to be used as a natural resource, these women were the ones in charge of carrying on their heads the “bacías” (kind of plastic bottles) with the precious mineral, always mixed with the sand the low tide left. Women made less money than men –on average was 15 pesetas (a coin used in Spain before the euro), in the 1940s- but as men, they were covered by an insurance from the very first day of work and they were paid their extra hours. “Titania S.A. was a very modern factory if we compare it with those of that time. When this mother-lode rush is over in the 1960s, the discrete place Valarés was used for cigarette smuggling. The beach is kind of difficult to see from any spot.”, Giadás explains.

The “economato” of Titania S.A., which sold basic foodstuff to the employees who paid a price much lower than that of the market, made the years of rationing be less hard. The surpluses of flavor and oil were resold to buy shoes. There are still some neighbours who are paid the pension for all the years they worked in the mine. “In an economy that was mainly dependent on the agriculture and the sea, the mine was the first contact with the secondary sector”, Gaiás states. Most workers didn´t stay long because the salaries in Valarés, good for the time though, couldn´t be compared with those of the French and German factories in the 1960s.

Ermida Beach

Ermida beach is the biggest beach in Corme. It is placed at 1km far from the village taking the road that leads to Gondomil. It provides the visitors with a parking area and with lifeguard services.

We can see on this beach, apart from its complex dune area the small island Estrela, which is the set of an endless number of legends where we can see the remains of a small “castro” and an old chapel dedicated to the Virgin Estrela.

We walk along the beach and go on along the coast towards the beach Río Covo, another amazing discovery along Os Camiños dos Faros.

Osmo Beach

This is the beach that is usually used by the so-called family tourism that looks for calm and good baths in these waters that are actually cool as the rest belonging to the estuary. This beach provides the visitors with showers, and a lifeguard service. At the end of the beach, there is a “furna” that is used for the young people in the village to celebrate one of the most unique festivals in the area, “A noite dos encantos da furna do Osmo” (the night of the enchantments of the Furna in Osmo)